Then again use a second coat to create a smooth straight extension of the wood trim to the slate.Įither method will result in a neat, easy to paint fill that should stop your air infiltration problem and make the finish look nice.It’s important to leave a gap between laminate flooring and the wall. If there is some shrinking or cracks, no problem, simply repeat the process with new tape and another coat of caulk.Īlternately, you could also use a setting type drywall mud, such as durabond 30 or 45 to fill the deeper gaps etc. This should result in a nice crisp straight line.
Immediately remove the tape while caulk is fresh. When you fill over the foam backer with the caulk, use a small putty knife to draw the caulk smooth and flat. Perhaps after injecting larger amounts of fire rated caulk as deep into void as possible, then use the solid, tube style caulking backer to fill the majority of the larger, deeper gaps, followed by using some paint-able silicon/acrylic mix caulk.īefore you apply the finish caulk, run a nice straight line of painter's tape up the front of the slate even with the edge of the wood trim. Ok after reading your comments, and learning that the black vertical sides are slate, I would still do similar to above. Readily available at any box or hardware store from a number of manufactures.
If for some reason you are concerned about high heat in this area, there is a fire rated caulk made especially for gaps in fire or common walls. After the caulk has cured, it can be painted to match the trim. The caulking backer is a round foam solid tube that can be cut to length, inserted into the gap to seal it and hold the caulk. If the assumption are right and the gap is 3/4 inch wide, I would use a caulking backer in the gap before using a good grade painter's or acrylic caulk as a topper. Is the metal you are referring to an insert trim of some type? A pic would be a big help here. Since this gap inside is directly adjacent to wood trim, I also have to assume that excessive heat is not a factor. I recommend you check out the caulking along the chimney to the exterior siding as well as addressing the interior gap. Regardless, if air is filtering through into the living space, there must be a gap outdoors ( external chimney) as well as indoors. I assume your gap is on the indoors side? There's a gap between black slate(?) of fireplace and white wooden fireplace frame. When he came and used his IR camera, the spot on the floor next to this gap was in the 30's in temperature.
WALL FLOOR GAP FILLER CRACK
He suggested sealing the crack on the inside as the most cost effective way to improve the comfort in this room. He has told me that it would be expensive to gain access to the gap between each stud and blow in insulation. My home energy auditor has said that its likely that the area surrounding the fireplace is not insulated. Unfortunately I can't seal the outside without great expense. What should I do to cover this gap and prevent air flow in a way that's safe and effective? With regards to sealing outside I wanted to use some kind of spray insulation such as "Great Stuff", but the label indicates that its flamable (not to mention highly toxic and needs to be covered). I didn't think I could caulk such a large gap. Its a rather sizable gap (maybe 3/4 of an inch). This seems like something I should be able to take care of. Unfortunately its right where the metal of the fireplace meets the wooden framing/molding of the fireplace on the inside. I've got a spot by a fireplace that lets cold air in.
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