Micro-pulverized pigments are suspended in a shellac solution to create a deep charcoal pigmented drawing ink. My board was Rosewood, but it was about the same level of brown as in that picture when I started. An American India Ink favored by artists since 1880 The Higgins Black India Ink was one of the first inks in the Higgins line. I'll post a shot of the board in my RG8 when I get off work if you want to see what the ink job looks like. I kind of like how they turned out, kind of ghostly-grey looking, but the point is that I was not intending to alter my inlays and I wound up altering my inlays. The OCD-like level of attention I was paying to that dye job was still not enough.Īside from the shenanigans with the neck, the inlays were also an issue as mentioned here. It cleaned up fine with some mineral spirits, but still. I'm not exactly a careless person either, I'm ridiculously attentive to my guitars. I taped off the neck / shoulders / binding of my guitar and a drop or two must have found it's way under that tape, because when I finished with the board and removed the tape there were ink smears alllll over the neck of the guitar. It worked okay, nothing special but it was a major pain in the ass getting it done.
Higgins india ink fretboard how to#
In all honesty, India Ink will give you the blackest most uniform look, it's just a pain to work with and I wouldn't recommend it unless you know what the inlays and binding are made of and how to get the dye out of/off of them.
Alternatively, if I need to use it, I'll go back and clean up the inlays with mixed down paint thinner and some micromesh. If I'm working on guitars with minimal/no inlay or binding I'll use India Ink. This will pull some of the dye out, but if you dyed the board it'll still be uniformly black. Lastly, I'll then oil the board with mineral oil. Higgins India Ink was one of the first inks developed under the Higgins brand in the 1880s, while in contrast, Black Magic was developed almost 100 years later. I'll do this a few times for a nice even dye job. I brush it on with a foam brush, let it sit for about 10 minutes and wipe away. Now for the dye, I use Fiebings Black, it's nice and forgiving as far as inlays and binding.and hands. This is really best for the wide open spots. Avoid the binding and inlays the best you can. You want to run it with the grain of the wood. Bottom line: unlike the minwax which resulted in a very dark rosewood, this stuff is black. My neck already had 5-6 coats of minwax ebony, so my results may've been influenced by that. 2 ounce bottle 3.99 USD and 2 ounces will cover many dozens of necks. Prep the wood surface with micromesh, anything between 20 grit will work. 04-25-2017, 03:17 PM Got some Speedball India Ink today. My neck already had 5-6 coats of minwax ebony, so my results mayve been influenced by that. Higgins black India drawing ink USED 90 volume I used this to stain a violin fretboard and havent used it since. You want to dry out the board so it's more likely to absorb the dye as deeply and evenly as possible. 2 ounce bottle 3.99 USD and 2 ounces will cover many dozens of necks.
Even if they guitar is new or looks like new. Here's what I do on 90% of guitars that I want the board black:Ĭlean the fretboard really good with some naphtha.
0 kommentar(er)
